Kay Sira under sail

What better way to kick-off the New Year than by learning to sail in the gorgeous Langkawi archipelago. Both Gudrun and I wanted to do an accredited course that can lead eventually to globally recognized Royal Yachting Association (RYA) “Yachtmaster” qualifications. Surfing the internet we found the Langkawi Sailing School based in Telaga Harbour Marina on the big island of Langkawi. The school is run by Barry and his wife Lynette. I telephoned the given number and the call was answered by Lynette who was in KL with her husband. We were able to meet up with them at Malone’s in KLCC (Kuala Lumpur City Centre)and arranged suitable courses on the spot starting on January 2, 2011. It was meant to be!

Barry is the only RYA accredited examiner in Malaysia. He can train you or examine you but not both; such is the integrity of the RYA programs. Barry is ex-British Army where he spent quite some time on secondment to the Royal Navy teaching sailors how to sail. When he retired, he and Lynette bought a 42’ “Slipper” yacht in Majorca and set off to sail around the world. They cruised the Mediterranean, crossed great oceans, operated charters in the Caribbean, and then decided to continue that business in another paradise without hurricanes…Langkawi! Recognizing that an opportunity existed for a sailing school, despite all of the naysayers who told them it just wouldn’t work; they established a very successful school in Langkawi and spend the European summers (low season in Malaysia) at their cottage in Spain. Wow!

To attend our sailing course we flew on Firefly from Subang to Langkawi the day the courses started, met Barry and Lynette and made ourselves at home on our training yacht, “Kay Sira”, complete with her dinghy, named very appropriately “Doris”!

We also met our very international crew consisting of two Brits, a South African, two Australians, an American and a German. Later we headed over to one of the Marina’s many restaurants for a “get to know you” dinner.

The next morning after breakfast on board we had a detailed safety-briefing lasting a few hours, prepared the boat and set sail for Penang. Soon after leaving, potential disaster struck. Water was pouring into the bilges from an unknown source! Operating the bilge pump we discovered that the pump membrane had split and the pump was next to useless. I was at the helm so hastily turned back to dock at the marina wharf while Barry searched for and found the source of our drama. A stainless-steel hose-clamp on a hose feeding cooling-water to the engine from a sea-cock had snapped, the hose became detached and sea-water was spurting into the bilge! Both problems were quickly fixed by our Captain and soon we were underway again. This “lesson” reinforced that when out at sea one has to be prepared for anything….. It is not always plain sailing!

Gudrun at the helm

We then enjoyed a lovely sail until the wind died so we started the engine and motored to our overnight anchorage, sheltering in a beautiful cluster of islands without further incident. After learning how to anchor securely, Barry advised us that we will have a 4am start so we all took the opportunity to get an early night. Frazer opted to “sleep” on deck where “the wondrous glory of the everlasting stars” succeeded in keeping him awake most of the night and he reported seeing many shooting stars.

Right on time at 4am we are preparing to sail in total darkness through a narrow channel beset with rock outcrops and small islands. I had the honour of plotting the course and Barry seemed confidently nonchalant as, sailing by compass bearings and distance traveled we narrowly missed all kinds of obstacles and at last reached “safe” water. We then sailed using the morning-star, Venus, as a reference. Later Barry prepared fried-egg sandwiches which coupled with choppy seas proved too much for some of the crew who succumbed to “mal de mer” and provided some burley for the fish! Gudrun was stalwart and did not give in. I was very proud of her!

Later in the day the wind dropped so we started the motor again. An hour or so later, oh, no! something had wrapped itself around the propeller and the motor stalled. Our intrepid young South African “James Bond” aka Frazer, volunteered to dive over the side, knife in hand, and cut the offending rice sack free. After all the excitement we arrived in Penang, tired and exhilarated. A hot shower at the Marina, some time on “terra firma” and we were ready to party!

At the marina in Penang

We walked to a famous local food- court where all sorts of wonderful food were on offer including real frog porridge! (Not porridge made by a Frenchman!)

After a lazy start the next morning we have lunch on board and learn about “ferry gliding” in the marina before heading out to sea for intensive tacking lessons commanded by two able bodied China-men “Lee Ho” and “Winch In”! Later in the day, after learning many useful knots (reef-knot, sheet-bend, round turn and two half-hitches, figure-of- eight, clove-hitch, and the indispensable bowline), we visited the famous Hong Kong bar which opened in the 1930’s and is renowned by service-men world-wide.

With another 4am start, tidal conditions were perfect, but…no wind. We motored for the first few hours then the prevailing nor-easterly kicked in and we enjoyed some exhilarating sailing, tacking on “close-reaches”. On the run back to the Royal Langkawi Yacht Club at Kuah we reached speeds of nearly eight knots. Heady stuff!

The penultimate day was action-packed as we tacked and jibed our way back to Telaga Harbour Marina together with very exciting “man overboard” (MOB) drills. Poor Bob, our MOB dummy, nearly had his neck broken during some very zealous recoveries!  Finally all we learned during the past week came together and with the very happy crew operating like a well-oiled machine, we sailed back to Telaga Marina to enjoy our farewell dinner together.

Barry and David at the farewell dinner

The last morning was spent scrubbing down the boat and making her ship-shape for the next week’s activities. Barry then presented the jubilant crew-members with their well-earned certificates and RYA log-books duly completed. All too soon we were bidding farewell and vowing to return for more, having enjoyed one of our best weeks ever in this paradise we call our second home!